Brunello di Montalcino 2006 and 2007 worth another look.

Just back from a great tasting the other day, I haven’t had a horizontal of Brunello in several years.

The great vintages of 2006 and 2007 have left us with some unique and wonderful wines, probably the best vintages since 1997 when frost drastically reduced the yields.

Recently, Brunello’s profile has been on the rise. It is considered among the top Italian wines for quality and finesse worldwide. This rise has been especially noticeable in the US market.

Despite the recent rise in profile,Brunello remains a great value when compared to both Bordeaux and Burgundy. They drink well young and age gracefully something which not all Grands Crus can accomplish.

Brunello’s fine tannins and balance of fruit, acidity, power and elegance make it an easy match for many foods, especially Cantonese food. As Cantonese food is about nuance, so too is Brunello. It isn’t one of those big New World fruit bombs or an Old World Tannin Monster.

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The Montalcino area has one of the most arid and warmest climates in all of Tuscany. This results in grapes ripening up to a week or more earlier than in neighboring areas like Chianti and Montepulciano. Combined with Montalcino’s altitude, most vineyards are >;;;;;500m and low average rainfall, the Brunello clones of Sangiovese have adapted to their unique environment to produce wines of character that speak of the people, place and traditions of the origin.
Another unique characteristic in Montalcino is that many producers actively blend between north facing and south facing slopes to harmonize the blend and produce complexity balanced with drinkability.

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2006 was a classic vintage; elegant and more restrained than 2007. Fruit and tannins are well balanced and the Riserva’s are ready to consider drinking now.

2007 on the other hand was a much more ripe and voluptuous vintage with a very round mouthfeel and some cooked fruit notes.

Some winners from the tasting:

Casanova di Neri Brunello di Montalcino Tenuta Nuova 2007.
Beautiful. 96 points

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Tasting this wine takes me to Chateauneuf du Pape on a late summer evening while the gallets(see photo below)

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are still hot from the long afternoon sun and you can almost smell the grapes ripening.

Wonderful red and black fruits and minerality with a touch of garrigue and cherry confiture.

San Filippo Brunello di Montalcino Le Lucere 2006
Stunning- top of show 97points

This wine shows excellent finesse. Balanced fruit, acidity, tannins as my Brit friends so aptly say “Rather moreish”. Red and black cherry fruit with a floral nuance and well integrated tannins.

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Published by thegrapelife

Professional fermented grape taster, Jonathan Mather, originally from Michigan, now hails from the other side of the world- Hong Kong. A sense of adventure and love of exploration has taken Jonathan on some great journeys. Through a love of travel enjoy the pleasure of meeting new and interesting people, and enjoy fine food, wine and music. All of the above; Together if possible! As a classically trained chef and hotelier Jonathan is still exploring life’s pleasures. Over the past two decades, Jonathan has worked in a variety of restaurants and hotels. Passion for great food and wine experiences led to catering and events for hotels. Jonathan’s excitement to explore; meet new people and eat what they eat has led him from street taco stands in Acapulco at 3am to the heights of fine Gastronomy. Always returning for a simple repast of peasant food and great wine- a NY strip rare with salt and pepper, wedge salad, shrimp cocktail, braised osso bucco and a great bottle of wine with some good friends!! While at Michigan State, Jonathan had the honor to run a student led gourmet dinner event for over 300 guests, Les Gourmets. Experience with Les Gourmets and other events sparked a passion for event planning and catering. After graduating from Michigan State’s Prestigious School of Hospitality Business in 1997, Jonathan worked in catering and events with InterContinental Chicago. In the early 2000's Jonathan was a partner in creating YLo Epicure in Denver a gourmet deli and catering company later sold and still one of Denver's top catering offerings. Later moving to Hong Kong, Jonathan has worked in the wine and spirits import and distribution market for over a decade. After a successful chapter with Macallan in sales and marketing, continued rising to General Manager Greater South China for ASC Fine Wines, a division of Suntory. Jonathan has been consulting on import, distribution and brand management for select clients in the region.

2 thoughts on “Brunello di Montalcino 2006 and 2007 worth another look.

  1. Looking forward to tasting young brunellos myself, We’ll be recieving the 2007 Neri (white label), Campogiovanni and Capanna. Never thought to compare them to CNP, I bet the minerality of Brunello is more akin to that of the Southern Rhone than to Northern France as well as the climate. I think the influence of some volcanic soil types in Montalcino may contribute to the profile of the wine.

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